Bokey TimeThe reason why gold watches have the reputation of retaining their value is largely because when watch brands launch commemorative limited-edition models, or models with complex movement craftsmanship or profound artistic attainments, they mostly choose precious metal materials like gold. These models often have precious value.
The so-called gold watches are not entirely made of gold, because the properties of gold are not suitable for manufacturing movements. Currently, the movements of top-brand watches still prefer brass. A gold watch is a watch whose case and even the strap are made of gold, and its gold part is quite different from the well-known pure gold jewelry.
In fact, pure gold cannot be used to make watch cases precisely because of its excessively soft texture. Watches referred to as “gold watches”, regardless of their color, are made of an alloy (composed of 750 parts per thousand pure gold and several other different metals). This proportion is known as 18k gold, a material that is also widely used in the Western jewelry industry.
It is a common misconception that 18K gold is not real gold or that it is worthless.
The “pure gold” we often refer to is 99.99% gold, which is also known as 24K gold. In contrast, 18K gold contains 75% gold, so it is indeed gold.
In developed countries like those in Europe, the jewelry and accessories commonly available are usually made of 18K gold. This is because 18K gold incorporates 25% of other metals, and when these metals are properly proportioned, it can exhibit a brighter luster and higher hardness than 24K gold. As a result, when crafted into jewelry or watches, 18K gold items are more resistant to deformation, more radiant, and do not fade over time. Moreover, the process of metal proportioning requires highly skilled and complex craftsmanship, which is why 18K gold often holds a higher value than 24K gold. If a piece of jewelry is created by a renowned master, its value becomes even higher.
Four types of precious metal watches
18K gold watch
Currently, precious metal watches in the world are basically made of the following four materials. The gold watch, the most common one, has a case cast from 750‰ pure gold, 125‰ silver, and 125‰ copper. Since the color of silver mixed with copper is very close to that of gold, the alloy cast with pure gold still retains the natural color of gold, but its hardness is significantly increased, which can fully withstand the tension from the watch strap. A watch made entirely of gold is really able to impress watch enthusiasts around the world.
18K red gold watch
(Also known as “rose gold watch”, it has an extremely elegant appearance). The case is cast from 750‰ pure gold and 250‰ copper. The pure gold content remains unchanged, but due to the increased proportion of copper, the alloy’s color is slightly reddish, hence the name red gold watch (rose gold watch). Thanks to the special color of red gold, it has less of the ostentation of yellow gold and exudes more elegance, gradually gaining people’s recognition and even love in recent years.
18K white gold watch
White gold watches: The concepts of white gold and platinum have long been confused by people, so it is necessary to explain them clearly here. White gold in the watchmaking industry is still an alloy of gold, with the proportion of pure gold remaining at 750‰. As for the other 250‰ of metals, there are two major schools of thought.
One school is to add zinc. The white gold color achieved by this method is slightly grayish and yellowish, and it needs to be rhodium-plated on the outer layer to look bright and dazzling. The disadvantage is that the rhodium plating layer will fall off over time, reducing the aesthetics. Even though big brands can guarantee to provide re-rhodium plating services, it is still troublesome. The other school is to add palladium. This method has a higher cost because palladium itself is also a precious metal. However, white gold with palladium added has a smooth, pure white and uniform color, and does not require rhodium plating, eliminating many troubles in future maintenance.
950 Platinum Watch
(The pinnacle of watch materials). Platinum rings in the jewelry market are much more expensive than gold rings, and the price difference is basically similar when it comes to watches made of these two materials. Platinum is very expensive, and only the most precious watches in the world will use platinum cases, with astonishingly high prices. In Switzerland, the official purity marks for platinum and 18k gold are completely different, so it is relatively easy for buyers to distinguish them. Companies like Patek Philippe, to make it easier for buyers, inlay a small diamond just below the 6 o’clock marker on all their platinum watches, which is very noticeable. Mastering this method, you will never go wrong in distinguishing whether a watch of this brand is made of platinum or not.
Maintenance of Precious Metal Watches
1. Avoid contact with chemicals such as bleach and hand sanitizer.
2. K gold is prone to scratches due to friction and collision, so it should be handled gently and stored separately.
3. Use a non-abrasive cloth (such as a silver polishing cloth or eyeglass cleaning cloth) to remove fingerprints and stains from the surface.
4. Although large-dial watches are popular, there should be moderation when wearing gold watches: women’s gold watches should not exceed 36mm, men’s dress gold watches are suitable at 35-40mm, and sports models can be slightly larger.
5. Scratches are inevitable. Scratches that appear under normal use should be treated rationally. They are marks left by time, not a sign of insufficient care, so there is no need to worry excessively.
